Hazy, Lazy Winter Thoughts

I rang in the new year in Kyzyl with a gaggle of dumplings, some telephone calls and communication with old friends, lots of Russian pop music on the TV, and a long, introspective walk around town. Overall, a fantastic start to 2010!

First of all, I read a great article today; "Being Foreign: the Others"
http://www.economist.com/world/international/displaystory.cfm?story_id=15108690

Here are my favorite bits:

"...foreignness is intrinsically stimulating. Like a good game of bridge, the condition of being foreign engages the mind constantly without ever tiring it. John Lechte, an Australian professor of social theory, characterises foreignness as “an escape from the boredom and banality of the everyday”. The mundane becomes “super-real”, and experienced “with an intensity evocative of the events of a true biography."

"...Every foreigner of inquiring mind becomes a part-time anthropologist, wondering and smiling at the new social rituals of his adoptive country. George Mikes, a Hungarian living in England, wrote a book in this genre called “How To Be An Alien”, published in 1946. It was not really about how to be an alien at all, but about a foreigner’s view of English society, and it was very funny. Mikes rightly saw that most social codes partook of the arbitrary and the absurd. If you happened to stand outside them, as a foreigner always did, then life could be a continuous comedy."

I guess these paragraphs ring especially true for me because I am a big-time foreigner here. On Wednesday, our last day of classes for 2009, I spent two hours talking to two students who had apparently been watching me all semester but were too shy to introduce themselves. Luckily, fate brought us together (never mind the fact that they were scrutinizing me for months!). A very large number of the people I meet here tell me I'm their "first foreigner." I suppose it's a good thing, but I feel a lot of responsibility for the impression I give. Well, not so much that I get manicures, but enough that I iron my pants (sometimes). I am also careful about what I say (most of the time), though I try to be myself as well. I guess only time will reveal exactly what the nature of my interaction with the community here is/means; whether I'll keep in touch with people here, whether I'll see them again, whether I (god-forbid) do any damage or accelerate the process of globalization!

I don't suppose there are many places left on Earth like Kyzyl, where foreigners are few (like the article said). It's a hugely interesting feeling to be unique here. I suppose it's good for my ego, certainly there are plenty of people who think I'm interesting. However, often the city and my life here has a strange feeling like it doesn't really exist. I guess the feeling is like I have fallen through a manhole into another dimension. The last four years of my life (college) seem like a dream, a blur of people and momentary activities. Before that Alaska seems more solid, but I suspect it is because of the ways that life in Alaska is similar to life in Siberia (climate being the root of most of these similarities). I feel like an American sometimes, but more often I feel like my nationality is "Foreigner" because I am defined here most succinctly by the fact that I am neither Tyvan nor Russian and that I largely lack the responsibilities that keep other people here busy.

So, anyways, that article rang really true for me, especially in the way that it illuminates and re-casts some of the bigger questions one tends to think about on New Years. Maybe it's just me, but I always do a lot of reflecting; pondering the places I've been, the people I've seen in the last year, and also thinking about where I want to go from here. The first few are a lot of fun to think about; the latter gives me some headaches, and I won't hazard a guess as of yet.

Ok, enough philosophical mumbo-jumbo :-) On to the details of life and New Years in Kyzyl. A big part of any holiday in Tyva is dumplings, called man-gyi. These dumplings are little balls of ground or chopped meat, wrapped in a thin casing of dough and steamed for about twenty minutes. When the dumplings are done, they are placed on a plate at a table and everybody tucks in, juices dribbling down chins. If you like, you can eat the dumplings with mayonnaise, ketchup, or mustard. The dumplings are different from Buryiat dumplings (if you are familiar with Buryiat dumplings) in that they are about half as big and there is less juice-slurping. But they are still delicious... and gut-bombs. I wonder if there is a country in the world with healthy holiday food?

In addition to dumplings, we prepared a traditional Russian salad. Namdolma has bronchitis, so I was in charge of the salad, which basically meant chopping potatoes, eggs, bologna, and onion into little cubes and mixing it with mayonnaise. Yum. The salad is very caloric, and lean on the vegetables.

Tonight, talking with relatives, we counted all the holidays we have had lately or will have soon:
1) Dec. 25th - Christmas in America
2) Dec. 31/Jan 1 - New Years Eve/Day
3) Jan 7 - Orthodox Christmas
4) Jan 13/14 - The Old New Year
5) Early Feb - Shaga (Buddhist New Year)

We will celebrate all of them except Orthodox Christmas, and I think I might celebrate that by going to watch the faithful jump into a hole cut in the ice of the Yenisei River.

I found it very exciting to celebrate the New Year in Russia, which I've never actually done before, although I recently realized that I have spent over a year of my life in this country, if I add together all my different trips. It's getting to be a significant part of who I am!

Television takes a big role in New Years celebrations in Russia; concerts with the country's favorite pop stars have been playing constantly for the past few days, sometimes with lyrics at the bottom of the screen so we can sing along. The actual New Year is celebrated on Red Square, of course, and the President's address is followed by the tolling of the clock, and then the national anthem. This year Medvedev told the Russian people to bear up together through difficulties and work together to build a modern economy. He also talked mentioned the Russian victory in the Great Patriotic War, as an example for modern Russian citizens in their quest for victory.

Surprisingly, nobody made me watch "Ironiya Sudbyi." I was a little disappointed!

We toasted the New Year with Kung-Fu Panda Champacionuk (champagne for kiddies) and ate dumplings and salad. It was a good dinner.

Then, today was a relaxing day. I was planning not to eat anything, but then Namdolma's husband put another plate of dumplings in front of my nose, and I didn't want to be rude so I found some more room in my stomach. Then I went for a long walk around Kyzyl enjoying the city and it's sights, with a holiday twist. There were a ton of drunk guys, stumbling across intersections and accosting people at bus stations. However, I've learned the local manner of avoiding them, mostly from hanging out with my students. Basically, the trick is not to attract their attention and keep moving.

I haven't really described the layout of Kyzyl yet... a gross oversight on my part. As with many Soviet cities, Kyzyl is laid out on a strict grid, with most of the population concentrated in the city center in apartment buildings. The two most important streets are ulitsa Kochetova and ulitsa Lenina. I live on Lenin Street.

Probably the most striking building in Kyzyl is the drama theatre, which is currently under construction. The building is a hulking white fortress, with what looks like ancient iron weapons strapped to the top and giant wooden doors. It looks like a castle from the Lord of the Rings, and always gives me the creeps when I walk by (but in a good way). I guess what I mean is that it really evokes the history of the Mongol Empire (Chinghis Khan's right hand favorite general was Tyvan). The theatre is next to the buildings for the Parliament and government of Tyva. There is also a giant prayer wheel, that was supposed to go next to the Datsan (temple) but somebody accidentally ordered one too big, and there was no room, so it's on the central square instead. Additionally, there is an old statue of Lenin, the central post office, the under-construction cinema, and the main campus of Tuva State University.

The second most striking building in Kyzyl is that National Museum, which is a couple blocks further down Lenin street. I haven't actually been to the museum yet, but it's at the top of my list, as soon as it opens after holidays. The museum has a golden pyramid shaped roof that catches the sun and shines like a beacon in the middle of the city. Next to the museum is the Republic Arbitrary Court, which is probably the third most fancy building in Kyzyl. Beyond that there are a smattering of favorite cafes and hang-outs, some good food stores. There are a few other regions in the city that are a little further out and can only be reached by bus, but I only go there to visit people. Mostly I hang out in the center...

I don't think these descriptions really give a feeling for what it's like, walking along the street in Kyzyl. First of all, all the walks are snowy, but trampled smooth. There are cross walks, but it's still important to pay attention to traffic. People crowd periodically at the minibus stops along the main street. The snow is fairly grey from the falling coal dust. The sky is also grey, but many of the apartment buildings are painted soft, cheerful pastel colors.

Also, different buildings have different levels of prestige, and you can tell something about a person based on where they live (according to the locals... I wouldn't say that I could). Many of the apartment buildings have small shops in the bottom floor; selling clothes, computer parts, or flowers. There are a fair number of small businesses in Kyzyl, although no local factories except for the bread factory. Abakan has more factories, and we enjoy their milk, honey, mustard, etc. Also, much of the meat for the whole region--stretching up to Krasnoyarsk comes from Tyva, or from Mongolia, through Tyva.

In the next six months, I plan to keep exploring more nooks and crannies. I've hit on most of the obvious ones (except the museum) but most of the socializing here happens in visiting different people's apartments or homes. Every new apartment I visit is a big adventure; I really enjoy it! It's just interesting to see how people live, and fun to drink tea and talk. Kind of like going to the fish store and looking in all the different tanks...

I'm scratching my head, but I can't come up with any more news! It's break and all the students are at home for 10 days, until they come back for exams. At the end of the month I have some travel plans; kicking around Moscow and St. Petersburg and returning with a crew of Fulbrighters on the train. I already have people here placing orders with me for things from the big city, and have promised to take a suitcase full of meat with me to Moscow. Yippee!

Very happy new year, everybody! It's a pleasure to live here with you all on planet Earth. I look forward to crossing paths in the coming months and years. Love,
Riley