It has been a week or so since last I wrote, so I think it's time for another update to the 'ole blog. It's a Friday night here, heading on towards midnight, but I went out to a cafe for coffee with some of my colleagues earlier and am still riding a caffeine buzz. So here we go...
A lot has happened since last I wrote, including a journey to Moscow to meet with my wonderful fellow ETAs and Fulbright scholars, seminars and camaraderie, the return journey back to Tuva, and more settling into the university and community. First a bit about the Moscow trip...
Traveling to Moscow was a true adventure that tested both my language skills and street smarts to the max. I left Kyzyl carrying an empty suitcase (to fill with books waiting for me in Moscow) in a taxi with a dude named Slava who drove way too fast. I watched the needle climb to 170 km/hr on the twisty highway through the mountains to Abakan. There was one other girl in the car, Katya, and both the driver and Katya were fairly impressed I was from America. I was fairly impressed that they thought nothing of driving so fast! I spent most of the journey in a state somewhere between prayer and sleep, as I thought deeply about my life and the things I still hope to accomplish, and the people I would like to see again!
The journey ended in Abakan when we dropped Katya in what looked to me like the middle of an empty field at about 2:30am, but apparently her relatives lived somewhere nearby in houses across the field under some trees. Slava took me to the airport, which was closed and locked up, and I said... 'uhm, take me to a hotel please!' I went to a hotel near the airport, with an English sign labelling it “Hotel,” but they told me they didn't serve foreigners. I didn't ask them why their sign was in English, as they were rather grouchy-seeming, but I still think it's a valid point. So I called Slava on his cell phone (he had sped off into the night) and he came back and drove me to another hotel. On the way we passed the Abakan prostitutes, flashing their legs suggestively at the Toyota Camry. Slava thought this was funny and shared with me several Russian euphemisms for prostitutes. But he was a good-natured guy, and I was very grateful he didn't ditch me in the middle of the night in the dark. Maybe once Russia has toughened me up a little more I'll be ready for it.
I stayed at this other hotel until dawn (it was actually a marriage palace, where newlyweds come to celebrate, and there were rose petals strewn about everywhere, pretty surreal!), and then made my way back to the airport and flew to Moscow. What a shock to suddenly transition from Russia's poorest area to its richest! Another shock was checking in to the Holiday Inn in Moscow and finding a plethora of cushy amenities, not the least of which was a “pillow menu” advertising 5 different pillows to choose from, complete with free delivery of said pillows. Unfortunately, I was too satisfied with my pillow to order a new one and promptly checked out on the pillow to sleep off the excitements of travel...
The next day began with the world's best hotel breakfast ever. I would recommend travel to Moscow purely for the pleasures of the Holiday Inn breakfast. Holiday Inn in America could learn a lot from the Moscow branch! Food in Russia, in general, is pretty good.
Then we went to the Embassy for a long morning of talks and presentations about politics, economics, and safety of Russia, all the official stuff associated with our stay in Russia. I found the Embassy to be super-secure and kind of sterile (they had to escort us to the bathroom?), but the speakers were very interesting and knowledgeable. I had many questions answered, and seeing fellow ETAs and scholars again was way beyond awesome. A lot of them have already been in country for a month or so, so I learned a lot from their stories...
Then we had lunch at a hamburger place (yay American cuisine) and then trooped over to the American Center to learn about the many resources available to English teachers and students of the language. For anyone who doesn't know, American Centers exist all over the world and serve as great resources and platforms for English teaching and American cultural studies. Unfortunately, there is no American Center in Kyzyl, at least right now (they are only located in large cities...).
Then we went on a tour of Moscow neighborhoods with a knowledgeable guide provided by Fulbright. Moscow feels like you can never reach the center; it just goes on and on. Red square is I suppose the center, but it feels somehow like there's nothing exactly in the middle. The trip was a brief return to comfort and affluence. I must say I enjoyed the comforts, although I find the rough edges of the provinces fascinating to an equal degree.
The next day was an ETA meeting to discuss our problems and successes as teachers thus far (a very useful discussion). Then it was already time to get ready to head back to Kyzyl, bidding farewell to American comrades and fellows. Remembering the excitement of the trip to Abakan, I bribed a crusty taxi driver with all gold teeth to not drive faster than 100 km on the way home. He told me “Anything to keep you smiling, princess” and proceeded to do a pretty good job sticking to the rule, although I had to chew him out a couple times. “Excuse me, Sir! I said no faster than 100km...” I had to be tough. I finally got a chance to see the drive in daylight, although the mountains were socked in with clouds so I didn't get to see the sleeping man of the Sayanis, the most famous rock formation. There were already icy patches on the high mountain roads! And I could see my breath in the early morning air... winter is not entirely distant, I think. When I arrived back in Tuva, I was told that as soon as I left it began raining, and didn't stop until I returned. I think this meant that they're glad to see me back? I was certainly glad to return.
My days at the university since then have been interesting. I have attended teachers meetings, sat in on classes, and continue to discuss plans with my colleagues and boss. I found a printer I can use to make handouts for the class, and am still negotiating a homestay situation. I am also trying to line up some sort of connection between students at home in Alaska and my Tuvan students, to put them in contact with a variety of voices from across the ocean who might have something in common to discuss with them.
The weekend and upcoming week should be good as well; I have a шашлык/picnic date for Sunday somewhere in the countryside and next week I begin Russian classes with my new teacher, who is going to help me study Russian literature and poetry. I will also be teaching my oral practice classes and drilling the grammar students, as well as scheming English club activities with my colleagues.
Much love to you distant friends and family. You are in my thoughts very often.
All the best,
Riley
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